ROD CONSTRUCTION
If you are considering building a bamboo rod, here are the steps I take.
The Culm
Standing bamboo is cut into twelve and six foot “culms” that get split into “strips”. Sanding off the nodes on the outside and inside makes it a lot easier to split the culm into strips. Split a six-foot culm in half then in half again until you get sixteen to eighteen strips.
Strip Prep
The freshly split strips are square and have to be planed or sanded to a triangular shape so that six strips fit together to form the rod shaft. The oversized strips can be hand planed but I use a beveler to change the square profile to a triangular profile. Triangular shaped strips are now ready for final planing on a planing form.
Node Chasing
Nodes are the bumps on the culm where branches attach. Nodes present a persistent challenge and must be flattened and smoothed to the same thickness as the rest of a strip so the finished rod is straight and true. I fight nodes at every step of the rod-making process.
Heat Treating
Now is a great time to strengthen the bamboo by heat treating before final planing. Tradition teaches that heat treating makes bamboo stiffer and reduces the tendency of the rod to “take a set”, i.e. remain bent.
Planing Forms
Planing forms determine tapers. The one I made has a variable-depth 60-degree “V”-shaped channel filed between the bars to hold bamboo strips while planing. The tip side's channel tapers from .03125" to .117", the butt side's channel tapers from .117" to .144". One side of the form is for butt sections the flip side for tip sections.
Seeking perfection, I decided to build a “professional” set of planing forms. Started with two 1”sq by 72” cold rolled steel bars. I tapped and died push-pull cap screws every five inches allowing the channel depths be adjusted within .001” tolerances.
Planing Strips
This is the heart of bamboo rod building. Planing bamboo down to the fine taper required is an art. I use a block pane and a planing form to reduce the strips profile.
Practice. Practice. Practice. With a bamboo strip locked down into the planing form I start at one end of the form holding the block plane with two hands and work the entire strip evenly. Repeat. Again. Planing is so about feel that you just have to dive in and give it a go. Good luck.
Gluing Up
Once all twelve strips for tip and butt sections are lovingly planed to satisfaction matching tight taper specifications they are ready for the big commitment of gluing. The glue, believe it or not, is off-the-shelf waterproof Titebond III.
Finishing Touches
Tip and butt blanks are done and ready for the tedious process of bringing my rod to life, adding varnish, rod guides and grip.
I varnish rod blanks with two coats of petroleum-based spar varnish. Petroleum-based spar varnish is the real deal and gives a much harder and glossier finish. Adding Penatrol to the varnish eliminates ripples and penetrates the varnish into wraps and guides. I WET-sand the first two coats with 2000 grit paper. Blanks get one last dip of varnish over all the wrapped guides and ferrules.
At first I attempted brushing the varnish on but only got drips, streaks, runs and bubbles. Came across yet another Rube Goldberg device that fixes this issue. Got a rotissery motor and rigged it up with a stand and simple pulley to sloooowly retract a rod section out of a PVC tube filled with petroleum-based spar varnish. Works like a charm.
Snake Guides
I've really gone down the rabbit hole now and am making my own snake guides with an Art LeClair Snake Maker. I touch up guide feet with a Dremel to create a flat base on guides for wrapping.
I hand wrap the snake guides, agate stripping guide, tip-top guide, and ferrules with Pearsalls and UTC silk thread.
Reel Seats and Slide Bands
Looking for a way to set my rods apart aesthetically from the teeming masses I discovered enameling on copper. I create very liberal interpretations of fishy patterns on the slide band reel seats and keepers. Maybe not the traditional presentations Garrison might have approved but then WTF!
The reel seats and slide bands are 5/8" and 3/4" copper pipe caps finished with Thompson Enamels. Enamel comes in powder form sprinkled onto the metal then fused with a 3750° Map-Pro Gas blowtorch. Fun.
Reel Handles
I use a variety of assorted exotic woods for the reel handles: Buckey Burl, Cocobolo, Bocote, Bubinga, Padauk, Madrone Burl, Afzelia Burl, Spalted Tamarind, etc. Lathe turning from 1" and 1-1/2" square stock.
